May 18, 2024

What the Car Dealership DOESN'T Want You to Know

For most people this is the most fearful and worst part of the whole car buying experience but for you it’s the best part because YOU ARE READY!  Please read this first bullet point very carefully as I draw back the curtain and show you the number of ways a dealership makes money on a car sale…it’s not what you think.

  •   HOW A DEALERSHIP REALLY MAKES IT’S MONEY ON A CAR DEAL – Everyone thinks a dealership makes it’s money selling a new car one way…They have a cost on the car and anything they sell the car for over that cost is their profit.  Well as Lee Corso  would say “Not so fast my friend”  In fact, I would be willing to say that of the five ways a dealership can make money on a new car sale, the actual selling of the car may rank fourth or fifth.  Here are the top five ways a dealership will try and make their money.
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  • 1.)  SELLING YOU THE CAR – Of course.  Everyone’s dad or neighbor loves to talk about how they spent hours at the dealership and whittled the price of their car down to next to nothing.  They also like to talk about how the sales manager had to come over and they had to go nose to nose until the sales manager saw it their way.  Or how they got up and were walking out and the manager had to run out to the parking lot and grab them to make the deal.Everyone knows someone who has one of these stories but did they really do as well as they thought?  
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  • HOLDING BACK ON THE TRADE-IN – Everyone gets so caught up in the price of the vehicle they’re buying that they miss out on this.  Say you have a trade-in worth $2,500.  the dealership is going to offer you $1,500.  Why?  For a couple of reasons…1) You may think it’s only worth $1,500 after the Silent Walkaround – more $ to the dealership.  2.)  Everyone always thinks their trade-in is worth a lot more money than it actually is so they leaves themselves some “wiggle” room in case they need it.  A dealership will never offer you the actual value of your vehicle in the beginning of a negotiation.
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  • VEHICLE SERVICE CONTRACTS & ANCILLARY PRODUCTS – More on this in the “In the Finance Office” section after this.  Basically, the Finance Manager is going to try and sell you an extended warranty (Vehicle Service Contract), GAP Protection, Paint Sealant, and a bunch of other stuff you don’t need.
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  • DOCUMENTATION FEE – The #1 rip-off at every dealership.  When the negotiating is done and you have decided you’re happy with your deal and wish to purchase the car you will go to the finance office where you will sign a purchase agreement.  On this purchase agreement you will see Documentation Fee or Doc Fee.  The average doc fee is roughly $800.  The Finance Manager will tell you this is for titling fees, prep fees for the car, sending someone to get your new registration, etc…this is all a bunch of bologna.  All of the above mentioned things are already a part of the profit of the car sale and the prep fee is paid by the manufacturer.  A Documentation Fee is simply this:  100% pure profit that goes into the owner of the dealership’s pocket.  It’s what the dealerships call a “pack”.  It insures that no matter what happens on this deal, $800 is going into the owner’s pocket.  Everything else they make money on goes into commissions, paying the back office, utililities for the dealershipetc… but the Doc Fee goes right into the owner’s pocket.  That’s why you see so many 70-80 yr old owners…they don’t have to do anything but sit back and watch the Finance Manager collect this.  Think about this…if a dealership sells just 300 cars per month..300 cars X $800 per car doc fee = $240,000 per month or $2,880,000 per year.  And this is the owner’s salary per year.  Not too bad.  A dealership will never let you out of paying the doc fee but we’re going to make it part of the price of the car.
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  • HOLDING RATE – If you finance a car at the dealership they will have you fill out a credit application that they will send online to the bank or banks.  They’ll have an answer back from all the banks in ten minutes or less.  Most of these banks will allow them to hold up to 2 points in rate on every contract.  What does this mean?  It means that if you qualify for a 5% car loan the dealer can tell you your rate is 6.99%.  The dealership then gets to keep the difference.  On a $24k total financed loan this could be $1,800.  But you’ve done your homework…you know that the new vehicle you’re buying has a special rate of 2.9% x 60 months.  If you get this (and you should) the dealership only gets paid a “flat” of $100.  This is fair.
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  • SO THINK ABOUT THIS!! – If a dealership sells you a new car and you don’t get the factory incentivized rate your deal could look like this for the dealership…$800 profit for car, $500 hold back on trade-in, $1,200 service contract, $1,800 in rate mark-up for a total of $4,300 profit to the dealer.  See how I told you the actual selling of the car may rank fourth or fifth on how they make money.  Alrighty then…let’s get started on our car deal!!! 
  • THE FOUR SQUARE WORKSHEET– This is the worksheet that every car dealership uses because it works…on 99% of people…but not you…not after you learn it’s secret and the secret is this:  Nobody can concentrate on four things at once so you will pick one of the four squares to concentrate on and let the other three go.  But you are going to be able to beat this.  Why?  Because you are calm, you’ll know what the sheet looks like   and we’re going to attack one square at a time.  This will frazzle your salesperson and their manager but it will save you big money.  Here’s how we’ll do it…
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  • SIGNING THE BOTTOM OF THE WORKSHEET:  You see at the bottom where it says “If All terms Are Agreeable, I Will Buy Now”? They’ll want you to sign that so the salesperson can show their manager that you are a “serious” buyer.  Go ahead and sign it.  It’s not legally binding and it will get things moving.  If you don’t come together to make a deal and they bring this back up just reply “All terms weren’t agreeable”.  End of story. 
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  • ROUND ONE! – After you sign showing you’re “serious” the salesperson will take the sheet to their manager and come back with the first set of figures or “Reactors” and they will say this: “Today’s selling price for this car will be twenty three eight ($23,800 – twenty three eight sounds a lot less than twenty three thousand and eight hundred dollars) We will give you one thousand one hundred dollars for yours (one thousand one hundred dollars sounds like a lot more than eleven hundred dollars) So with only $5,000 down your payment will be $446-452 x 48 mos or $366 -372 for 60 mos.  Which do you prefer?”  And then dead silence.  There is a saying in the car business “Whoever speaks first loses”.  The salesperson is trained to sit there and not say a word until you speak first.  It’s supposed to give control to the salesperson if you speak first.  It doesn’t do that for us.  The first thing you’ll say is…
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  • SELLING PRICE – “Does this price include all the rebates and the Doc Fee?”  Every first set of figures for the sales price of the car start at the MSRP or “Sticker Price” for the car.  This is cool.  The dealership has to start somewhere.  But you know this…Every new Honda, Toyota, Subaru, or Nissan has roughly 8% mark-up not including any rebates. So if $23,800 is the sticker price an offer of 22,200 is perfectly fair.  Don’t worry, the dealer has something called “Holdback” which means they’ll still make around $800 at invoice price and this is fair.  If the salesperson says he doesn’t know, tell him to find out what the rebate and Doc Fee is.  Then offer them $22,400 minus the rebate.  Example: If the rebate is $500, offer $22,400 – $500 rebate or $21,900.  The salesperson will then respond with “If I can sell you this car for $21,900 including the rebate and Doc Fee will you buy it today?”  You respond with “No.  You come back with $21,900 and then we’re going to talk about my trade-in and the money down.”  This will absolutely freak them out.  Shoot…the manager may even come over.
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  • ROUND TWO – One thing about buying a car is you have to be willing to get up and walk away.  If they only take the rebate off the price of the car or the rebate + $300 off, get up, and say “It looks like I’m heading to Blank Honda”.  This will totally throw them.  They will ask you to sit back down and “Let me see what I can do”.  Then you say “I’m serious about buying a car TODAY!  Are you serious about selling one?”  Trust me…on the last day of the month they are very serious.  The sales manager may actually come in now.  It doesn’t matter.  The manager is counting on his title and a change of face to spook or counsel you.  It doesn’t .  With your new knowledge and control the manager will be shook by you.  Always be polite but firm.
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  • ROUND THREE – Time to get to your trade-in price. ***If you don’t have a trade-in, skip to “Round Four”***  Most millenials will either not have a trade or will have a old semi-reliable car with a lot of miles on it.  Make sure you know what your car is worth (See the trade-in value link in “Before You Buy”)  A couple of things…
  • If it’s an older car with over 100k miles sometimes they’re only worth $500-$1,000.  If it’s in good shape $1,500-$2,000.  The dealer is going to sell this to a “Buy Here, Pay Here” dealer for $2,500.  Tell them you know they’re going to sell it to a “Wholesaler” for $2,500 and that’s what you want for it.
  • If it’s a little nicer car and worth $3,500 – $4,000 don’t let them tell you it’s worth $2,500 because they’re going to have to fix this, this, and that.  remind them that they’re getting the car fixed at cost (Their own service dept) so it won’t be that much. 
  • Remember: An extra $500 in your trade can lower your payment $10.  Every little bit adds up.
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  • ROUND FOUR – THE FINAL ROUND – You’re almost there…hang in there!  Here’s where we’re at…$22,400 – $500 rebate = $21,900 sales price doc fee included into price and $1,500 for our trade-in which we owe nothing on. Now, if you want to put money down on this purchase it’s up to you.  Figure your payment will drop $20 for every $1,000 you put down.  The good thing about putting money down is it lowers your payment and your LTV (loan to value) which makes you attractive to banks.  The not-so-good thing is it’s $1k you could be doing something else with…like paying your first six months of car insurance so it’s up to you.  Let’s meet half-way and put $500 down.  I’ll show you why now.  
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  • $500 Down Payment.  Tell the salesperson “I’ll buy the car for $21,900 which includes the rebate and the doc fee. I want $1,500 for my trade-in and with $500 down I want my payment at $395 per month all taxes and fees included”.  The salesperson will hem and haw and stutter.  NOW is where the $500 down payment comes in.  Write the check to the dealership for $500 and tell the salesperson to take it to their manager.  If you don’t feel comfortable signing it that’s fine.  I say sign it – they have to give it back if “terms aren’t agreeable”.  This will also help your salesperson because they will move to the front of the line. You won’t have to wait as long for figures.  You’ve been here long enough.  If the sales manager has not shown up yet they will definitely show up now!  This is great.  This means you’ve been doing a great job as a car buyer and are saving yourself thousands of dollars!  The manager is going to tell you over and over why they can’t do this deal.  Tell them “That’s fine, I’ll go to Blank Honda now and see how close I can get there.  May I have my keys?”  Remember:  They always hang onto your trade-in keys.  The manager will again tell you they can’t do the deal because of this and that and can you “help them out a little bit?”.  Say this, stick out your hand, and if they don’t take the deal go to the next dealership…“I’ll split the Doc Fee with you right now but that’s it.”  This may raise your payment $9 but you’re still good.  Trust me…the manager will go back to their office, re-put all the figure into a calculator, see how many new cars they are away from their goal, and take the deal.  AWESOME JOB!! Now it’s off to the finance office where things get very slippery.
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